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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.